FROM TRIPLE STITCHING TO ITS REVERSED APPLICATION

São Paulo Fashion Week · 2018–2019

Across São Paulo Fashion Week editions N45, N46, N47, and N48, BEIRA presented different stages of an ongoing exploration of garment construction, patternmaking, and inside-out design. Triple stitching connects these collections, evolving through changes in materials, colors, and silhouettes.

In 2018, at N45 and N46, the technique, not yet reversed, highlighted cuts and joins. The three parallel lines followed the patternmaking and became part of the garments' design, exploring different fabric weights, textures, and transparencies.

In 2019, at N47, the research progressed to reversed triple stitching. The interlacing of threads normally concealed on the inside became part of the garments' outer surfaces. Red, brown, and beige threads against black fabrics revealed the paths of construction.

At N48, the exploration continued through lightweight, sheer silks, shades of blue, tone-on-tone stitching, and subtle contrasts. Hand-painted details, exposed seam allowances, and new finishing experiments expanded the relationship between surface, volume, and movement.

Runway photographs and contemporary press publications document this evolution. Together, they reveal how the relationship between cutting, fabric, and stitching developed from one collection to the next, giving continuity to BEIRA's construction language.

2019 · SPFW N48

At SPFW N48 in São Paulo, BEIRA continued its exploration of reversed triple stitching. Tone-on-tone stitching and subtle contrasts followed cuts and joins in lightweight, sheer silks. Hand-painted details shared the fabric surface with stitching, exploring the relationship between construction, delicacy, and movement.
The collection also expanded its experimentation with finishes and volumes. Exposed seam allowances, fraying, and cuts across the back revealed assembly decisions, connecting the garments' design to the way they were made.
In the SS20 collection press release, the brand invited viewers to follow the paths of the seams and observe how painting, fabric, and construction intersect.
"We encourage you to explore our clothes from the inside and out, letting the seams guide you through the construction of the piece."
"Handpaintings take turns with color-contrast seams, highlighting the construction of the parts and continuing the product development process." — BEIRA, SS20 Press Release, October 22, 2019.
FFW
Camila Yahn highlights construction as the collection's creative principle. Her article examines the exposure of seams and the continuity of silhouettes, developed through both fluid and structured forms.
"Whether vigorous or soft, what truly matters to her is emphasizing the construction of the garment. This is her main objective, so everything is designed to highlight that process."
"Stitching appears either on the outside, fully exposed, or with meticulous finishing."
"She remains faithful to the silhouettes she has explored since the beginning, alternating between more fluid and structured shapes." — Camila Yahn, FFW, October 16, 2019. Translated from Portuguese.
HARPER'S BAZAAR
Marcela Palhão explores the continuity between garments and the experimentation with seams and finishes. Her article discusses how fabrics fray with wear and how cuts add volume to shirts and coats.
"'Shapes are always part of a process I develop when thinking about the next pair of trousers or the next blouse,' the designer explained, referring to what she calls a 'family of products,' in which one piece evolves from another."
"The stitching | Lívia innovated with the seams, deciding to make them wider, measuring three centimeters. The idea is for the garment to gradually wear and fray as it is worn and washed."
"The back | The most striking details were found on the back: the cutting and stitching added volume and ruffles to the garments."
"One of the interesting details of BEIRA's deconstructed tailoring lies in the back: the yokes were cut into flared and semicircular shapes, creating volume through ruffles on shirts and coats." — Marcela Palhão, Harper's Bazaar, October 2019. 10 Things We Loved About BEIRA's SPFW N48 Show. Translated from Portuguese.
SPFW N48 2019 | Backstage Photography: Ivi

2018 · SPFW N46

At SPFW N46, BEIRA explored the relationship between stitching, cuts, and patternmaking in silk garments and sheer fabrics. Triple stitching, not yet reversed, highlighted the joins and became part of the garments' design, bringing structure, finishing, and form closer together. The press emphasized the three parallel lines of topstitching, the construction of volumes, and the attention given to both the inside and outside of each garment.
LILIAN PACCE
Jorge Wakabara identifies the three lines of topstitching among the details that define the garments, alongside cuts, proportions, and different textures.
"It is the stitching that forms three parallel lines of topstitching; [...] the highly interesting patternmaking (a larger armhole, a circular cut across the torso); the variety of fabric weights and textures." — Jorge Wakabara, Lilian Pacce, October 24, 2018. The Delicacy of BEIRA's Simplicity. Translated from Portuguese.
HARPER'S BAZAAR
Beatriz Poletto highlights the choice of a three-needle sewing machine to emphasize stitching as part of the brand's identity.
"Shape and silhouette are somewhat intrinsic to the brand, because what matters is how the garment is constructed, how it is sewn, and how you perceive the process." - "And the designer's signature lies in her approach to stitching: 'I chose the three-needle cylinder-bed sewing machine to really draw attention to the stitching. It is a very defined visual element and conveys a great deal of fashion information.'" — Beatriz Poletto, Harper's Bazaar, October 24, 2018. Discover the Details We Loved from BEIRA's Summer 2019 Collection. Translated from Portuguese.
FFW
Carolina Vasone highlights how functional stitching also contributes to the collection's appearance, bringing garment assembly and design together.
"The decorative seams developed from the garments' functional stitching add an extra touch of charm to the collection, and were the focus of Lívia's exploration this season." — Carolina Vasone, FFW, October 24, 2018. Translated from Portuguese.
L'OFFICIEL BRASIL
Gabriela Tannus presents construction as the starting point of the creative process, emphasizing cutting, stitching, and finishing.
"The entire creative process is conceived around the construction of the garment." - "Ideas emerge directly at the cutting table, inspired by the construction of the garment, when considering ways to cut the fabric or elements such as a collar or armhole, or even a particular finish or an unusual seam [...]."
"The garments' meticulous finishing is an essential element, with straight and diagonal seams conceived to ensure that each piece is as beautifully made on the inside as it is on the outside." — Gabriela Tannus, L'Officiel Brasil, October 25, 2018. BEIRA Surprises with Its Natural and Chic Approach. Translated from Portuguese.
VOGUE BRASIL
Renata Garcia highlights the architecture of the garments, their volumes, and the attention given to the inside.
"It is in the architecture and details that the brand reveals itself." - "[...] looks featuring generous constructions in linen, silk, and cotton, with pleats and folds that create unexpected movement, while the inside receives special attention." — Renata Garcia, Vogue Brasil, October 24, 2018. BEIRA | São Paulo | N46. Translated from Portuguese.